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Intersections of Process

Laura Fischer’s knotted stones spark wonder and command attention. Those of us who gather stones or other natural forms on walks can relate to that moment of awe, when a form presents itself, compelling us to pick it up and pocket it.

The geometries encasing Fischer’s forms are often intensely regular. A placement of deliberate knots where each thread’s longitude meets its latitude creates a rhythmic skin. The intervals pay homage to the stone’s present geometry, the totality of the knotted terrain acknowledging each millenia-shaped curve or crevice. We know the phrase ‘leave no stone unturned.’ Fischer ventures further, leaving no nuance unexamined. As we gaze at her sculptures, we know by an intersection of memories how the form might feel in our palm: the smoothness and weight of the worn rock, punctuated by a grid of netting.

THE GEOMETRIES ENCASING FISCHER’S FORMS ARE OFTEN INTENSELY REGULAR. A PLACEMENT OF DELIBERATE KNOTS WHERE EACH THREAD’S LONGITUDE MEETS ITS LATITUDE CREATES A RHYTHMIC SKIN. 

Fischer describes herself as an artist mostly concerned with process. She prefers to immerse in the ‘doing’, a space that she describes as non-verbal or pre-verbal. Selecting a form is subintentional. Though she prefers natural fibers, the exact twine doesn’t matter, as long as it doesn’t have too much stretch. The knots aren’t specific in identity, though their integrity is critical to structural success. She knots in the same way she discovers her subjects in the landscape: outside of words, wholly intuitive. 

In some works Fischer leaves her cords dangling and fringy. We can perhaps map her route by the fiber’s starts and stops. In these pieces it is the weaving process that features. Other bound rocks mute the evidence of the twining process. The cut ends are carefully woven in, leaving us unsure of the start and the end or how it came to be. These pieces speak more to the stone’s shape. And sometimes Fischer feels the constructed casing doesn’t ‘arrive’ to become an acceptable, finished work. When this happens, Fischer is compelled to cut the casing and release the stone. The exoskeleton sags a bit in the absence of its armature, but the rigor of Fischer’s constructions allows the form to remain. The stone is still powerfully felt.

Earlier works in Fischer’s art practice investigated the curious transfer from weaving to quilting when her female ancestors immigrated to the US. Certain patterns and motifs survived the change in medium, begging the question: are patterns part of our archetype? Primary symbols of identity? These notions intertwined pattern with longing, cultivating Fischer’s desire to immerse in a similar process to gain a sense of be-longing. She has distilled her practice to one of Noticing, Gathering, Considering and Wrapping, employing a kind of found loom, some natural fiber, and an enduring appetite for process to produce these sculptural outcomes.

Like Fischer’s found stones, we are each a product of time and space, sculptural outcomes of the many intersections that lead to our being. Also like the stone, we are always slowly changing form, ever honed by external forces. Fischer acknowledges this universality, joint by joint, link by link, as she rhythmically traverses each path and each pebble, trussing time to space.


To learn more about the work of Laura Fischer visit lauralivingstonfischer.com

Personal Origin In Materials

BLACK HAS MANY COMPLEX MEANINGS BUT IS OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH THE EARTH, FERTILITY, DEATH, BEAUTIFUL AND SHINING BLACK SKIN, AND THE LIMITLESSNESS OF DEEP AND ESOTERIC KNOWLEDGE.

What is your relationship with the colors blue (black), red and white? What do these colors: (as hues, or as dyestuffs) represent in the West African cultures that you studied? 

In traditional Yoruba chromatography, there are three primary colors White (Funfun), Black (Dudu), and Red ( Pupa). Indigo (Aro), specifically dark indigo, is often understood as a shade of Black. It is typically derived from the Elu plant (lonchocarpus cyanescens). In contrast, white was typically derived from Kaolin Chalk. A common source for red for dyes and cosmetics is Camwood powder (Osun), derived from the heartwood of baphia ntida, Pterocarpus souyaxii, or Pterocarpus osun. These pigments are used to paint shrines, religious objects as well as for initiations. White is a color symbolizing purity, light, and coolness. Orisha (deities), Such as Obatala (the lord of the white cloth) who shaped humanity, is associated with white regalia. Many deities associated with water, such as Osun, Yemoja (river goddesses), and Olokun (The sea god/goddess), are also associated with the color white. Black has many complex meanings but is often associated with the earth, fertility, death, beautiful and shining Black skin, and the limitlessness of deep and esoteric knowledge. Indigo and indigo dyeing are also associated with particular deities as well, Osun and Iya Mapo (a goddess associated with numerous feminine arts and industries) being two prominent examples. Red is associated with heat, aggression, and virility. Sango the Orisa of fire and thunder, his wife Oya the goddess of the whirlwind, are two very prominent examples. It is important to note that as Yoruba religious principles emphasize balance, these pigments may be used in sacrifices and rituals for each of these deities as they each have the potential to manifest each of these qualities. 

Can you expand upon your experience with material and dye, and your interest in the use of Kola nuts, Camwood, and Indigo? 

I was first exposed to Indigo and Kola Nut dyeing while studying at the Nike center for art and Culture in Ogidi Ijumu. I also learned how to dye yarns with a species of sorghum that yields a reddish-brown color. Although I knew about the use of Camwood for dyeing fibers from interviewing artisans and dyers in Nigeria, I did not begin to use it in my artistic practice until I returned to the U.S. My interest in using these dyes came from descriptions of a now-defunct cottage dyeing industry that was once an essential part of many Nigerian weaving traditions. Only indigo dyeing and, on occasion, Kola nut dyeing continues to survive into the modern-day. As an artist fascinated by pre-colonial Africa’s art and culture, thinking of how to incorporate these ancient techniques into my work was very important.

Photograph by Stacey S. Hamilton

What Is the material used in your weaving? 

Most of my work uses naturally dyed cotton. This is the primary fiber used to weave Kijipa, the sturdy handwoven cloth woven on the upright loom. I use both mercerized lace weight crochet yarn and unmercerized natural cotton twine of different weights. I also use silk as certain dyes have a better affinity for Silk and other protein fibers. For certain cloth, I will also incorporate Raffia, which accepts dye very well when pre-soaked long enough despite being hydrophobic. These three fibers were once ubiquitous in many Nigerian weaving traditions. Today machine-spun, synthetically dyed cotton and rayon predominate in most traditional weaving centers, while raffia weaving still predominates in certain weaving centers in the Southeast, such as Ikot Ekpene.

Can you elaborate on your choice to place figures on a woven ground? How does this ground act specifically as metaphor? 

There are many aesthetic reasons why I enjoy painting figures on handwoven cloth. One of the most prominent is that it is a way to merge my background as a painter with my weaving and dyeing practice. The work blends the historical traditions of decorative display cloths used in many West and West-central African cultures with western portraiture and figurative painting. In this way, the cloth moves back and forth between the foreground and background, informing the pieces’ symbolism and composition in both dynamic and subtle ways. 

LEARNING WEAVING AND DYEING, SURROUNDED BY COTTON PLANTS AND INDIGO BUSHES, IN WHAT ONCE WAS PART OF A CENTER FOR CLOTH PRODUCTION IN THE PRE-COLONIAL ERA HELPED ME APPRECIATE THE SYMBOLIC MEANING OF WHAT I WAS LEARNING. THROUGH WORKING WITH THESE MATERIALS, I RECLAIM THAT STOLEN LABOR AND RECONNECT WITH THIS ANCIENT KNOWLEDGE. 

How did you arrive at the decision to place figures on top of the cloth background, as opposed to weaving the figures in? 

As I said in the last response, my background before I started weaving was in figurative painting. I studied illustration in college, so I wanted to find a way to bring both art forms together in my work. Weaving the figures into the work would add more time to an already time-intensive process, in addition to not giving the desired effect.

Can you discuss which indigenous African techniques inform your work? 

I incorporate traditional upright loom weaving (Aso-Ofi), woodcarving, and resist dyeing (Adire) into large scale, mixed-media installations. I also create clothing and other textiles, metal, and wood-based objects for photo and performance work. 

What is the concept you refer to: ‘reclaiming ancestral wisdom?’ How did you come to be introduced to this concept, and can you describe your decision to pursue it? 

My interest in learning about the African past began in childhood. It has informed my work for as long as I can remember. This desire to reconnect with this heritage led me to travel to Nigeria to study at the Nike center for art and culture. Having the opportunity to live in Nigeria and learn the history and folklore tied to cotton and indigo helped me reflect on my own experiences and history as an African American. The ancestral knowledge and traditions surrounding these materials in Nigeria and other parts of West Africa were exploited on plantations in the Americas for centuries. 

Conversely, the connections between these industries and African systems of knowledge have been dissociated from us in the diaspora. Cotton and Indigo, crops associated with wealth, prestige, and even medicine, became associated with suffering and toil through the trauma of the transatlantic slave trade. Learning weaving and dyeing, surrounded by cotton plants and indigo bushes, in what once was part of a center for cloth production in the pre-colonial era helped me appreciate the symbolic meaning of what I was learning. Through working with these materials, I reclaim that stolen labor and reconnect with this ancient knowledge. 

Do you have thoughts about your practice which includes more than one medium? What do you access in weaving that is different from painting – and vice-versa?

Weaving is a very meditative practice. It requires patience, focus, and finding a rhythm. It is a dedication to a slow additive process, one that cannot be rushed. Painting is a different experience. As I am a reasonably fast painter, the process isn’t as slow. I am also more of an intuitive painter, whereas weaving, though requiring incredible imagination, is a more systematic and rhythmic process for me. 

Can you speak a bit about the weaving in your work- what does it give you? What and who do you connect to in doing it? How is that different from painting and drawing?

Because of the ancestral connection I have with the weaving tradition that I practice, there is almost a spiritual connection that I have to act. Although I will always have a love for painting and drawing, weaving means something different to me. This tradition’s role in the history of the African Diaspora impacts who I choose to teach it to and the community I am trying to build around these art forms in the United States. I consider weaving on this loom a Black artistic praxis, one that is my inheritance. Being gifted with this knowledge informs my identity in ways that differ from figurative drawing and painting.


To learn more about the work of Stephen Hamilton visit itanproject.com

Manonik

Yoshiuki Minami was born and raised in Niihama, a former copper mining city on the inland sea coast of Japan.  For the last two decades he has made the U.S. his home, and like many who cross an ocean to live somewhere new, he now exists in a duality of simultaneous cultures. Minami founded the brand Manonik in 2016. Throughout each season’s collection, traditional Western silhouettes intersect with textile-focused, hand-made fabrics which reference the landscape and the deep connection to nature that is at the core of his native culture.

To construct each garment, Minami weaves all of the cloth by hand. This process follows a long period of research and care in sourcing every fiber. There is a purity in the intention of this work, one that prioritizes a full transparency of the material supply chain, and highlights the value of labor.  The evidence of the hand is conspicuous. No two garments are the same, and each unique fabric reads like a ground, like something slowly cultivated and coaxed out of a garden. Fibers are at times encouraged to remain fibers, with some of their natural wildness permitted to escape the weave, or their end pieces enticingly left to dangle.

NO TWO GARMENTS ARE THE SAME, AND EACH UNIQUE FABRIC READS LIKE A GROUND, LIKE SOMETHING SLOWLY CULTIVATED AND COAXED OUT OF A GARDEN. FIBERS ARE AT TIMES ENCOURAGED TO REMAIN FIBERS, WITH SOME OF THEIR NATURAL WILDNESS PERMITTED TO ESCAPE THE WEAVE, OR THEIR END PIECES ENTICINGLY LEFT TO DANGLE.

When Minami decides to add color to a fabric, he sources only natural dyes, and bathes the fibers in a process that uses the milk proteins of plants. The color fixes slowly, sometimes taking months to cure. During this time, the garments or yarns spend their time away from direct sunlight, ripening, so that they can be worn outside and retain their hue. 

Minami begins the process of making a garment by sourcing materials as locally as possible. He prefers plant based fibers with naturally occurring colors, as in unbleached cottons which retain their indigenous greens and browns. These fibers merge unexpectedly into plaids and tartans, but retain their connection to the earth. The resulting cloth is at once evolved design and prima materia. 

While some wearable pieces are a simple draping of a handwoven textile, as in a series of shawls or ‘haori’, fine tailoring also occurs, in the form of precise, three dimensional weavings. This is a process which Minami has developed. Pants and jackets are finely shaped directly on the loom. Minami combines his devotion to natural materials with a deep knowledge of clothing construction and the resulting apparel is a bespoke, lifted landscape. 

To put on a Manonik garment is to be surrounded in the embrace of an artist’s design. The precision in the three dimensional weave accepts our asymmetries, the subtle curvatures of our elbows and shoulders. The garment anticipates motion, draping unpretentious, unvarnished, fiber tendrils emerging. 

This commitment to slowness, to the beauty of careful labor, and to absolute knowing of the origin of the materials is an effort to redirect our futures to a better relationship with our economy and environment. Participating in acquiring and wearing these clothes is a tactile experience which puts us into harmony.


Manonik comes from the words ‘la mano,’ italian for ‘hand,’ and ‘nik,’ three letters from the artist’s name and a word which denotes a person associated with a specified thing or quality. As such Manonik signifies a person whose existence cannot be without the use of hands.

To learn more about the work of Yoshiuki Minami visit manonik.com

Profound Interventions

Photograph by Susanna Bauer

The first time artist Susanna Bauer worked intentionally with a leaf, she mended it. Gathered on a walk, she brought it back to her studio. It had already fallen from the tree, and in its drying state, had lost its photosynthetic green. Wanting to press pause at this moment in the life cycle and somehow to repair a portion that had disintegrated, Bauer filled the rupture with careful stitching.

Bringing thread to leaf was a revelation for Bauer, who has spent the last twelve years exploring new dialogues between the two. She performs diverse interventions at a very specific moment in time: the point in a leaf’s cycle when it falls, having completed its job of storing energy and nutrients for the tree, but before it decomposes to bring nourishment back into the soil for the roots. Bauer attends to each leaf entirely, producing newly enumerated

Photograph by Susanna Bauer
THIS JUXTAPOSITION OF EXTRAORDINARY TENDERNESS WITH EXTREME ALTERATIONS OF FORM GIVE THE WORK AN UNDENIABLE POWER.

outcomes out of the acuity of her attention. Her gestures highlight far more than a leaf’s shape, often illuminating the anatomy of the interior, or creating entirely new geometries. She has been known to immortalize the curvature of how a particular leaf has dried, or to conjoin different leaf species. The medium has proven endlessly fertile. Perpetually amazed by the elaborateness of systems employed by nature and its complex growth patterns, she finds intricacy in laced capillaries. Threadings of veins which carry sustenance through organic forms inspire her to devoted response, a cascade of carefully calibrated stitching engagements with the specific contours of her fallen subjects.

Originally from Germany, Bauer has lived a multitude of professional lives. After studying landscape architecture, she formally trained in industrial and product design modelmaking, which helped her to hone engineering and dexterity down to the tenth of a millimeter. She worked for two decades in London in film and advertising, specializing in miniature and architectural modelmaking. For years she traveled from London to her partner’s home in Cornwall, often bringing back various natural forms.  Once, she was compelled to cover a small found log in crochet, in an effort to hold or contain it. Though Bauer practiced craft in her urban life, she recognized a desire to immerse in the outdoors. Eventually she moved south permanently, and began a full time sculptural practice in collaboration with nature.

A large body of work contends with a leaf’s perimeter. Patterned stitches traverse the exterior, growing more decorative with each concentric ring. The viewer is presented with the surprise of a lace edging on a natural form. Since the invention of this form of needlework, lacemakers have looked to nature as inspiration for the countless patterns found in decorative collars and trims which framed and elevated the faces of the European courts in the 16th century. Bauer’s work is no less laborious, and her decision to embellish something as common as a fallen leaf somehow returns the favor, redirecting the homage from human back to nature.

Photograph by Steve Tanner
Photograph by Steve Tanner

But it is in the wilder, more unexpected responses that Bauer truly flexes both her craft rigor, and tendencies towards more provocative shifts. A dried leaf on its way back to dust is suddenly sewn into a cube. An interior, scalpeled circle reroutes the leaf’s main artery such that water can no longer pass through. Without cease the works read like fine china. But Bauer is both sublime caregiver and radical surgeon. She is at once preservationist and revisionist. This juxtaposition of extraordinary tenderness with extreme alterations of form give the work an undeniable power.

Going back to that first patched leaf, perhaps Bauer was mending herself, weaving her own life back into a harmonious dialogue with nature, stitch by stitch. Her efforts seem to pay something forward. As we marvel at her choice to spend her hours creating these works, and at the offerings themselves, we are reminded of the duality of the fragility and endurance of nature. Her skillful stitches, wandering across leaf and stem, work their way through us, reconnecting us to our natural roots.


To learn more about the work of Susanna Bauer visit susannabauer.com

A Threaded Woodland

From a Surrey HIlls studio surrounded by woodland, hyper-realist artist Amanda Cobbett recreates the marvel of lichens, mosses and fungi with thread and paper. Mounted for the most part on black backgrounds, her sculptures glitter. The natural beauty of our forest’s most ancient plants remain lusciously suspended in time and space.

Cobbett recalls the slow pull of a drawer, many years back, in the archive of the department of Mycology at Kew Gardens. Open, the drawer revealed a tray of preserved fungi. Regarding their shriveled, posthumous state, Cobbett queried herself:  “What am I looking at? Why are we saving this? What about these grey, parched forms could possibly be relevant or important?”

The visit inspired the artist, trained both in printed textile design and botanical illustration, to experiment with her materials. She began recreating mycological specimens in a state of more apparent vitality, still full of the color and shape that compels wonder during a walk through the woods. 

As a baby, Cobbett never crawled, opting to scoot around on her backside. “It wasn’t traditional,” says the artist, “but it left my hands free. And they were always in the dirt, delightedly picking up leaves and spiders.” But she was taught by her parents to fear the woods, and it wasn’t until she moved near a woodland as an adult, and took a daily walk with her very slow dog, that the forest became a good friend.

THE PURPOSEFUL RECREATION OF A SLIVER OF BARK OR A TINY PATCH OF LICHEN GIVES US PAUSE. THE SURPRISE ENCOUNTER WITH SOMETHING WE KNOW, BUT OFTEN OVERLOOK, TRANSLATED INTO A WHOLLY NEW MATERIAL, ACCENTUATES ITS IMPORTANCE.
AS A THING, THREAD IS A TWISTING OF FILAMENTS, DESIGNED TO JOIN FABRIC TOGETHER. COBBETT’S SCULPTURES THREAD THEIR WAY THROUGH US, SEAMING US TO LANDSCAPE. 

What is immediate in this artist’s work is her devotion. In part it’s the fastidious articulation of detail, but it is also her choice of subject. The purposeful recreation of a sliver of bark or a tiny patch of lichen gives us pause. The surprise encounter with something we know, but often overlook, translated into a wholly new material, accentuates its importance.

Perhaps one of the benefits of fiber is its ability to speak to the same haptic receptors in our fingertips as these actual organic forms. We imagine caressing the sculpture, connecting those conjurings to memories of touching moss on a forest floor. We are called back to the time in our lives before walking. Whether we crawled or scooted, we roamed close to the surface, our vantage illuminating only that first micro layer of ground.

Cobbett constructs these forms in utter slowness. Her cadence relates to the rate of growth in some of these species. Lichen, for example, that symbiotic partnership of a fungus and an alga, matures so gradually compared to our human lifespan that its growth evades our perception. Thoughtfully, something in this methodical stitching practice nods its head to the slow expansion of our forest. 

To thread is to pervade. It is to pass continuously through the whole course of something. As a thing, thread is a twisting of filaments, designed to join fabric together. Cobbett’s sculptures thread their way through us, seaming us to landscape. 


To learn more about the work of Amanda Cobbett visit amandacobbett.com

About the Cover

Photograph by Jordana Munk Martin

The cover image of our Earth Issue displays an artist standing at her loom, seaside. This loom, a 9 foot circle made of driftwood, warped with plant fiber, and filled with seaweed, pinecones, wool, and cloth donated from her community, is a work of art woven by artist Kirsten Rickert.

Rickert lives in coastal Maine. She is the mother of two daughters and has a practice of making circular landworks from elements of the landscape. This practice is a dialogue with the Earth. It can mark time, seasons, or milestones in her life. The artist also has a practice of year-round ocean swimming, plunging throughout northern Maine’s coldest months.

Tatter asked Rickert to bring this earthwork practice to a frame loom, in an effort to merge textile making with her regular conversation with land. In doing so, the artist was able to lift her practice from the ground and create a metaphor for the ways in which cloth and earth are ever intertwined.

The piece was photographed by Dora Somosi on a wildly windy, spring day in Blue Hill, Maine.

Photographs by Kirsten Rickert

Enter The Monastery

DURING THESE DAYS, MY SUBCONSCIENCE AWAKENED AND CROSSED THE GAP INTO MY AWARENESS. I WOULD WAKE UP SCREAMING, TRANSFORMED.

After five years of living in London, I was back in my childhood home in Buenos Aires, confined by lockdown. To move around the world according to your own intentions and agenda is an adult condition, but here I was again, confined to my childhood home and bedroom. I was in Argentina to make an ambitious presentation of my latest collection, with a plan to showcase my garments alongside a performance installation, hoping to engage a big team. 

The virus hit immediately for people who live a fast-paced life–those who were most exposed. Confusion, hope, resilience and innovation proliferated to cope with the situation; but ultimately, we had to stop and isolate ourselves. It was a kind of surrender.

I stayed in my room for 40 days. Working continuously, smoking, barely eating and suffering from a long-distance relationship that was coming to an end. 

During these days, my subconscious mind awakened and crossed the gap into my awareness. I would wake up screaming, transformed.

That’s when my latest collection took a spin. I knew I had to let go of previous expectations of success and change course. I submerged into a journey of childhood reminiscence.

I read Carl Jung and learned how dreams cannot be confined to the back of the mind. How we must instead embrace them as agents of transformation.

I BEGAN TO REALIZE AN ARC OF CONSCIOUSNESS, IMAGINING MYSELF AS THE EMPRESS, UNDERSTANDING THAT I NEEDED THE RETREAT AND HUMILITY OF THE HERMIT IN ORDER TO REEMERGE AS THE WARRIOR.

For the collection, I worked with three of Jung’s archetypes that I could clearly identify in my dreams: The Empress, The Hermit, and The Warrior. The collection is titled Enter the Monastery. I began to realize an arc of consciousness, imagining myself as the Empress, understanding that I needed the retreat and humility of the Hermit in order to reemerge as the Warrior. Each type was represented by specific materials and techniques, and each look resulted in a corresponding document. I upcycled by-products that I collected myself: discarded dirty wool, panels of PVC used before as awnings, fabric scraps left at home from university days and inherited sequins and beads I had saved from my great aunt that were left in drawers of my old room. I engaged in a full repurposing of remnants from my past. It felt as if I were sweeping the floor; maybe to make it dirty again, or maybe just as a simple reminder that in order to create work you always need to touch the ground first.

The Empress represents full bloom and fertility. I used offcuts from fabrics I had printed when I was in University to do the flowers that are embellished throughout the surface of the dress. I digitally printed lots of different images from London skies, to tie it visually to the language of my dreams. The look was all about abundance and warmth. Its documentation was made outdoors – a contradiction or denial of the present times, resulting in fantasy and nostalgic scenery.

Artist portrait by Antony Crolla

The Hermit bears similarities to a magician. For this look I used Swarovski crystal beads mixed with felted wool and tulle. I wanted to protect the wearer with layers of fabric and crystals. This piece has electric green tulle and tartan fabric to make it a bit of a mess. The silhouette changes with movement as the layers open. The portraits were taken via FaceTime, replicating the aesthetic of the 20’s, a period in which the Spanish Flu led to years of confinement and distance.

The Warrior is all about plastic, groundedness, and life in the city. Contrary to the mystery of the dream world,  it is overt, conveying strength with a classic silhouette. But it is dripping with layers of oil and embellished with inherited metallic beads from my great-aunt. I wanted to do a statement piece and claim a space opposite to the previous dreamier, lighter-weighted tulles.


Clara Pinto is a fashion designer from Buenos Aires, Argentina, currently working in the U.K. Her work is handcrafted using natural materials. She often makes bespoke garments inspired by what she collects, using biological materials like bones, wool and hair to create organic patterns and embroideries. Clara has worked for Peter Pilotto and Martine Jarlgaard and is an artist of the Sarabande Foundation, created by Alexander McQueen.


Learn more about the collections and art of Clara Pinto.

Nunozori

I’ve lost track of the number of people who enter my home and–after brief salutations–glance down and exclaim, “I love your slippers!” They are referring to the nunozori rag slippers that my partner makes from our old clothes. 

Nunozori come from Japan, where lament of waste, expressed in the term mottainai, is deeply rooted. Mottainai can express regret, like sorrow over spoiled food. Or it can be said in recognition of a thing’s enduring value despite a deteriorated appearance, as in old clothes that have worn thin or fallen out of fashion—a thing no longer loved but holding on to potential. The physical flexibility of textiles lends itself to functional repurposing and longevity. Nunozori spare cloth the indignity of the dustbin by giving it renewed purpose.

Rag strips, the softer the better, are woven into a durable slipper that can stand several cycles in the washing machine, emerging ready to serve. It is said that walking in them stimulates pressure points, massaging tired soles as you carry on. All this while they clean and polish your floor!

In the humid climate of Japan, where rain falls frequently and shoes get wet, it has long been customary to remove them at the door so as not to bring dampness into the home. Historically, removing shoes was also the first step to keeping a tidy house, as tatami mat-covered floors are hard to clean. 

Traditional Japanese architecture follows a philosophy of free space, where rooms are neither divided nor assigned an individual purpose. The same surface over which feet tread in the afternoon is host to evening meals, and becomes a platform for futons at night. Today, Western influences on architecture and customs have promoted a greater division of space, floors made of wood or tile, and the use of slippers in contemporary homes. Modeled after traditional zori footwear, which is most commonly made of rice straw, nunozori are a fairly modern invention, a Japanese revision of the Western slipper. 

NUNOZORI PRESERVE AND PROLONG THE STORY OF FABRIC, AND WITH IT, THE STORY OF SELF.

The entrance to a Japanese home is through the genkan, a small room with a divided floor. One passes through the door at street level onto stone or tile paving, removing shoes to step up onto the level of the home. A genkan is often simple and bare, furnished only with a getabako, a shoe cupboard, and a vessel arranged with fresh flowers. The word genkan is written with two kanji, one that represents mystery followed by one that denotes a gateway. The same word is used to refer to the entrance to a profound path like the teachings of Zen Buddhism. The genkan is a physical space through which one transitions between metaphysical spheres, uchi and soto, inside and outside. 

To traverse this border between out and in now carries more weight than ever before. There is a new and alarming risk lurking in the public sphere; and we are told that we are safest inside, at home. We no longer invite people from the outside to come in and when we return from out there, we wonder what we or they might bring in here. The virus known as COVID-19–and the fear of it–are more than can be shed at the door with a change of footwear. 

Nunozori preserve and prolong the story of fabric, and with it, the story of self. As I look down and recognize a familiar color or pattern woven into my slipper, I connect with my personal history. I am reminded of a time before, when things felt easier and freer. It’s comforting to carry the before with us as we tread the worn floors of home, the safest space we know. Now enclosed, I imagine a time when the weighted division between in and out will lift, permitting us a lighter passage. 


Learn more about Japanese culture, food and travel with Prairie Stuart-Wolff.

My Palestinian Skin, A Dream

Artist, author, and historian Wafa Ghnaim has spent much of her life researching information and story about Palestinian embroidery motifs. She and her sisters learned traditional Palestinian cross stitch from their mother, Feryal Abassi-Ghnaim, each girl starting at the age of four. In 2018, Ghnaim published Tatreez and Tea: Embroidery and Storytelling in the Palestinian Diaspora, a book that preserves 47 traditional motifs, illuminating their meaning and offering stitching instructions.

Palestinian embroidery, called Tatreez, is centuries-old, a skill almost always passed down from mother to daughter. Like most embroidery traditions, humanity is embedded within the work. Voices of women, silenced by political oppression, or at times by their own culture, lie deeply between the threads. During the First Intifada, between 1987 and 1993, Israeli soldiers confiscated Palestinian flags, excepting those worn on the body. Palestinian women responded with embroidery, incorporating the icon onto their garments.

The condition of isolation is ubiquitous in surviving Palestinian culture. Since 1948, all Palestinians have either been exiled from the terrain they identify as their homeland, or forced to live in occupied territories.  Ghnaim and her sisters were raised in Oregon, the only Palestinian family in town. Though they were met with tolerance, they grew up in the absence of shared community. Like many Palestinians, Ghnaim’s family enacted and preserved culture around their own isolated table.

Across the Palestinian diaspora, the ritual of stitching and wearing traditional dress celebrates identity and connection. Though Ghnaim most often chooses to

FOR GHNAIM, EMBROIDERY IS A DAILY PRACTICE OF MANIFESTING IDENTITY. HER STITCHES INHABIT THE BOUNDARIES OF THE MAP ENTIRELY, CONNECTING TO CULTURE THROUGH MOTIF, AND CLAIMING TERRAIN TO ITS EDGES.

embroider wearable garments, during quarantine she was compelled to stitch a complete map of Palestine. Jewel tone threads in a patchwork of designs fill the shape of Palestine and its surrounds. She calls the work My Palestinian Skin, A Dream. Whether referring to the skin of the embellished cloth, or more literally to her own, the title acknowledges a longed-for identity.

A never-ending use of borders divides our planet, isolating geography into countries, one by one. The concept of diaspora evokes the energized purpose of sustaining a connection with a distant place, either real or imagined. For Ghnaim, embroidery is a daily practice of manifesting identity. Her stitches inhabit the boundaries of the map entirely, connecting to culture through motif, and claiming terrain to its edges.


Learn more about Wafa Ghnaim and traditional tatreez.

The Exquisite Isolation of Chaos

Molly Haynes’ weaving is an investigation of structure. Fibers bend to the will of her loom; warp threads are forced to wrap the intersecting wefts. Order is the church. Synthetic materials intersect with natural fibers in an overt commentary on the tensions between nature and civilization. Color takes a secondary role; Haynes prefers to develop and explore through a minimal palette of black, white and natural. Occasional bursts of hue are tautly restrained, framed inside of a structured geometry. The resulting forms show a technical command, yet the playful array of materials suggests an openness to experimentation.

Haynes has been wrestling the concept of chaos since her studies at the Rhode Island School of Design. She recalls walking on a sandy beach in 2013, encountering planted grasses which had dislodged and dried, transforming into weathered marine tumbleweeds. The grasses, she learned, had been intentionally planted, their roots employed to restrain the force of coastal erosion. Compelled to recreate order, Haynes gathered the masses of intertwined roots and stems, split them apart, and wove them into her work. 

Back at school, she found a large spool of sisal, a stiff fiber usually made of agave spun into a durable twine. She spent some time releasing the fibers from their confined twist. Untwisted strands have a defiant kink; they appear untethered. Again Haynes felt compelled to quiet them. A weaving practice ensued. 

In the present of 2020, Molly Haynes is back on the beach, this time in Cape Cod, taking a daily, solitary quarantine walk. On the beach she finds lobstering twine. Synthetic as can be, and the brightest of cobalt blue. She describes the find as ‘romantic,’ noting the unusual beauty of a mass of blue lines lying abandoned on the sand. The weavings that follow bear witness to this unexpected find. True to her practice, Haynes deftly isolates the color into the crevices of netlike forms. Structure compelling order.

The pandemic is defined by mass energetic volatility.  A virus roams the planet, an infectious zigzag jumping from body to body. Our effort to survive—to preserve our bodies and psyche—depends on confinement. We, like Haynes, are tasked to identify eruption and to enforce isolation. The strange novelty of collective vulnerability enables us to identify with Haynes, and with the impulse that animates her work: the drive to sequester chaos by the deliberate structure of isolation.


Learn more about the art of Molly Haynes.

TRUE TO HER PRACTICE, HAYNES DEFTLY ISOLATES THE COLOR INTO THE CREVICES OF NETLIKE FORMS. STRUCTURE COMPELLING ORDER.